Chicken Dum Biryani

In a large bowl, combine yogurt, ginger, garlic, some of the fried onions, biryani masala, red chili powder, salt, ground pepper, kewra water, rose water, meetha attar, and lime juice. Add the chicken and coat well. Cover and marinate for 3 hours in the refrigerator.

Heat oil in a heavy pan and add the marinated chicken. Cook over medium heat until the chicken is nearly done and a flavorful gravy forms. Add the fried potatoes and cook briefly. Separate the potatoes from the chicken, and keep the chicken and its gravy or yakhni aside for layering.

Meanwhile, rinse and soak the basmati rice for 20 to 30 minutes, then drain. Bring a large pot of water to a boil with bay leaves, green cardamom, black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, shahi jeera, fennel seeds, white peppercorns, black peppercorns, alum if using, and salt. Boil the rice until it is about 70 percent cooked, then drain immediately.

Grease a heavy pot or kadhai with ghee and line the base with bay leaves. Spread the cooked chicken in an even layer, arrange the fried potatoes on top, and spoon over some of the reserved gravy or yakhni.

Add a layer of parboiled rice, then sprinkle with fried onions, biryani masala, alubukhara, rose petals, and grated khoya if using. Add the remaining rice on top and drizzle over the saffron milk, a little more ghee, and any remaining fried onions.

Cover the pot tightly with foil and a lid. Place it over a tawa or heat diffuser and cook on very low heat for 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the biryani rest, covered, for 20 minutes before gently fluffing and serving.