Cantonese Steamed Fish with Black Bean Sauce

Place the fish on a shallow heatproof plate that fits inside your steamer or wok. Bring the steamer water to a boil. In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, hot water, white pepper, sesame oil, and soy sauce until the sugar dissolves; set this sauce base aside.

Set the plate of fish in the steamer, cover, and reduce the heat so the water stays at a steady simmer. Steam thin fillets for 3-5 minutes, thicker fillets for 4-7 minutes, small whole fish for 6-8 minutes, or larger whole fish for 7-10 minutes, depending on thickness and temperature.

While the fish steams, make the black bean sauce. Heat the neutral oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the dried chilies, if using, and the minced ginger; stir for about 30 seconds to perfume the oil.

Add the fermented black beans and stir briefly, then add the garlic. Cook for another 30 seconds, just until the aromatics smell fragrant and the ginger begins to color lightly.

Stir the reserved soy sauce mixture again, pour it into the saucepan, and bring it to a gentle simmer. Add half of the scallions, then turn off the heat and let the sauce settle while the fish finishes cooking.